Adjusting the size and position of the AF Spot, all senarios given.


How many times have wanted (needed) to change the size of the AF rectangle when using the touch screen as the trigger?

OR, how many times have you needed to “Move” the AF Spot in a hurry? Each instruction is separate from the others;

To adjust the AF Point Size (for the advance set up of the Manual Magnified field, OR for the Touch Screen AF/Trigger). Not for regular Camera Trigger AF spot use. Just for the AF/Touch release OR setting the Manual Focus magnification in advance!

  • 1) Set the LCD to the touch mode with the small box/finger Icon
  • 2) Touch the screen where you want the AF point to be
  • 3) Adjust the size with the slider on the right
  • 4) Don’t push OK…. Go right to taking a photo with cameras regular shutter release.

TO MOVE the standard AF Point around with the arrows

  • 1) Push “OK” to activate SCP
  • 2) Choose the AF Point Display button
  • 3) Push “OK”
  • 4) use the 4ways to place it manually
  • 5) Push “OK”

You could also just touch the screen where you want the AF Point to be, if you are still in the LCD mode as above with the small box/finger Icon displayed

You can set-up Fn1 to adjust the  “Standard” AF point position.
Easiest in my head… once it is set up:

  • 1) Push “Fn1”
  • 2) Use the 4ways to move it around.
  • 2a) You can adjust the Focus Array Pattern and Face Detection by pushing “INFO” (Explained below)
  • 3) Push “OK”
  • This is independent of using a small AF Box as outlined in the 1st instructions I listed above. So, the standard square will be used as your AF point position with this instruction set.

TO change from Single Point to blocks of 6 or 9, or the full AF Points.
A side note: Only ONE AF POINT WILL BE USED. Automatically set by the camera.
I suggest engaging “Face Detection” when you have multiple AF point arrays chosen.

As above, with an added step

  • 1) Push “OK” to activate SCP
  • 2) Choose the AF Point Display button
  • 3) Push “OK”
  • 3a) Push “INFO”
  • 4) Use the “UP/DOWN” arrows to change the AF Field Array
  • 4a) Use the L/R arrows to engage “Face Detection options”
  • 4b) Use the “FRONT WHEEL” to adjust the 6/9 square blocks
  • 4) use the 4ways to place it manually
  • 5) Push “OK”

To Tie the Spot Meter to the AF point.

  • Menu
  • Gears
  • A
  • AEL-AF, set the options so  a 1/2 press = AEL/AFL and Full Press = Exposure
  • S-AF
  • Mode-1 (locks both) Mode 3 is just for Metering, no AF lock–allows you to move the spot meter on any part of the frame.

This will tie the Meter and AF point together,  (Mode 1), useful in “Touch-Screen AF/Trigger” LCD mode. and shoot.

To have an independent “Spot Meter Point”, you will have set up a Custom Function button to use the “Spot Meter” as an AEL button. And then recompose and shoot. I use the Video Button behind the Fn1 as my AEL button. Tied with the Spot Meter.

15 thoughts on “Adjusting the size and position of the AF Spot, all senarios given.”

  1. That is totally useless…you should be able to do it in non-touchscreen mode. The problem with this camera is that you cannot focus on small objects in the forgeround and it really pisses me off. I can do it on any phase detection Sony…The only way to make these blocks smaller would be to add about another 50 focus points. This was poorly thought out…I am sure the non-touchscreen portion can be fixed with a firmware update but unlikely it will get done. MF mode does no good either because the focus point does not go green when in focus. If Oly is going to use a Sony sensor then maybe they should you their multi-layered focusing system as well…I will have to live with until a better model comes out- Sony has great tech but their images just suck and I love the deep modes here. They just need to make a more refined model.

    1. You can, you do it in the MF Magnified mode also, and use the front wheel to change it. It is a lot quicker if you have Fn1 for Mag Mode.
      But, to your other point on focusing on the closer subject, I believe that can be a firmware update. I think my Pentax K20 could do that if you had a selected point array. The AF spot that had the closest focus point was picked.. I think I had to have the Focus Tracking on also.
      I think it would be an easy update, but, I’d rather use the smallish 14x AF point in touch screen mode to pick the AF point myself, and not rely on the camera to read my mind on what I want to focus on 😉

      1. I did figure out that it can be done but you have to be in touchscreen mode only!!! And I still get out of focus issues. I do not think this can be fixed by a firmware update. Phase detection is tricky and unless their are many smaller focus points added to the sensors reading ability then just maginifying smaller or larger will have no impact on focusing. I have a Lumix 45-200 and it you are zoomed at 150 or more as a starting point it will not focus on foreground objects at all…This is a flaw in the system and I doubt it can be fixed by firmware…CAF and tracking is horrible as well..it goes in and out of focus if the object moves so slightly–even my E-520 did not do this with 7 points of focus…I think we are looking at one to two more model upgrades before they get it right…For now, I will have to live with it…Thanks for the reply.

    2. totally agree, I’ve not had the EM1 for long and it drives me nuts you can’t move the focus points more quickly or jump around mulitple focal points – especially doing macro pics! . I have a Panasonic G2 (my old faithful) and just by refocusing it moves around its selection of focal points automatically and you just take the pic when you’re happy

  2. It sounds like you trying to use this for Sports, or other fast moving sport. and thinking the E-M5 can handle it. Not really. Olympus never made that claim. CDAF in any camera is not their yet. When AF sensors wind up “On-The-Sensor” with CDAF may get closer. Yes, even with a 14x AF point, the underling focus areas are a more like a 10x AF point in size, so, the exact part you touch may vary a few MM’s in any direction. (The Panasonic G3 has a much more accurate AF Touch Screen system).
    I am not sure what f/stop you use, where you can’t touch the screen and get that point in focus. The DOF should at least cover the very slight error of few mm’s of where the AF really focuses on. I use the 14x (smallest AF point) with waist level Street Photography, I have never had a miss focus, even at 4 feet away. If, you need to use focusing Tracking in sports with the E-M5, this is not an intended subject. If waking people, and other similar moving subjects are you subject, the E-M5 can handle that. If you have faster moving subjects, (running, etc).. you need to use a camera with PDAF, Focus Tracking and at least 5fps. I don’t think it’s fair to use a camera not made to photograph sports, and complain it can’t do the job. Focus Tracing ONLY WORKS with the 4fps drive mode, and with subjects moving around 3mph (a fast walk). In the 9fps drive mode, the camera will lock focus on the 1st frame AF point. that is the only way to get 9fps at this time.

  3. i thank you for the comment but why have 9fps. if you can’t get any shots in focus? I understand that Oly says it only works on a single locked point but even at 4fp.s and subject tracking it loses focus constantly…What you are basically saying is that this is a portrait only camera, and it was not marketed as a “portrait” only camera. I know the focusing is great with the touchscreen but I did not buy it for it’s touchscreen, I could have just bought an EP model????

    I do not see the same limiting affects in Sony SLT models with the same focusing system- the reality is the camera fails in many areas- 1) smaller foreground images rarely can be put into focus; 2) when using a zoom lens you have to zoom out then in to get proper focus on smaller foreground object; 3) it focus hunts in low light situations with or without the AF Light- with the 12-50 or the 45r MM 1.8 and my Pany 45-200. These are real issues and no one is really talking about it. I spent a shitload of money on this system to shoot weddings and events and it should perform at least close to a Nikon D3100 in performance, and it does not. Albeit, the image quality is far better than any other camera on the market, it really lacks where it counts-when the that perfect picture will be OOF!

    If you have any helpful suggestions I am all ears but so far no one has been open about the real faults of this camera. I know it is the first generation for Olympus- but the tech. has been out for 3 years- you would have thought they would realize this in testing and correct it before putting out in the market for $1400!!!

    1. The Camera is a TOOL, and, as such, picking the right tool is important for any job. I used to be a Wedding Photographer, and used a Canon EOS 630. with a 21-35 and 35-105 and 430ez flash.. never had a problem with OOF shoots. And, I know of one Professional Wedding Photographer who uses the E-M5, and loves it for Wedding Photography. It has it’s limits, as any “tool”. Your style of Wedding Photography may require a different set of [key] features as your “Must Have” features first. You may need to consider cameras (Tools) that have the features you need for your style of Photography. And invest in [those] cameras.
      .
      Regarding using the touch screen at paid gigs…..Who cares, as long as you get the shots. I know, (being 58), “Looks” can mean everything. but, honestly, if you have been in the business a while, That perceived attitude photographers have on “How they “LOOK” with their gear by others, fades away when you can deliver the results your clients expect. If, using a touch screen gets you the shot, use it.. It also affords you to use low and high angles very easily.
      .
      But, if the E-M5 doesn’t fit your style of shooting some gigs. Use a different system that does. Many Wedding Photographers have several systems to pick from. Pick up the “Right Tool” for the job, considering the cameras features for each job requirement.
      .
      .

      .
      .

    2. Sony SLT uses phase detect AF. That’s why it has a semi-transparent mirror with most of the light going to the sensor and some going to the AF sensor.

      This is a different tool to a DSLR, and so you have to understand and work to its strengths. Ultimately, it may not be able to do what you want it to do, in way that you’d like.

      1. I think there is one point most of you are missing most about the EM-5 and that is the focusing system is just subpar- unless the subject is frozen, your chances of getting an OOF shot are very high, especially with a large aperature. Sorry, I should not have to have 3 different cameras for the right job? Now I understand that high speed motion is an issue and I can accept that- but when a subject is walking towards me (at 3 MPH) and I get OOF shots and just have to pray that one is in focus? Well, that really is unacceptable. It does have it’s moments but the risk of not getting the shot is not worth it. I love the lenses so much that I am going to hang on to it until the next model but if these issues are not improved it is just a Portrait and landscape Camera to me at best. I am very surprised at the level of people that do not see this as an issue- and just forget the camera in dim lighting- AF illluminator is weak, and even with the 600 R flash it misses quite a bit. If you are not using the 1.8-2.0 lenses your in trouble or must treat each shot as a large landscape shot.

  4. You may want to look at the Panasonic GH3, it has a CDAF system, but, it may be better in some areas. I take sharp and fast action waking all the time with Street Photography. How do “I” do it ?? Not through the EVF!! Through the LCD activated as a touch/AF-Trigger. I use a 10x or 14x AF point, and set my shutter at least 1/250.
    Just to be clear, ALL DSLRs (Which the Sony SLT are BTW.. If it has a mirror it is an SLR.. Digital or Film –FSLR), have PDAF which can focus and track focus MUCH better in higher speed subject movement. It has to do with the WHERE AND HOW the AF sensor function! PDAF sensors are in the base of the camera, under the mirror. And, as such, can also have a way to adjust the AF/Light beam splitter so the focus can be actuate. PDAF can be faster because it does not rely on contrast to focus, it uses a beam splitter to form two images, and as the lens is moved back and forth, the 2 images will merge as one image, and bang… you’re in focus. It can be very fast.

    BUT, if one of the split images is out of alinement, the camera can “MISS” the focus because of the mis-alinement. That is why many DSLRs have custom AF lens Adjustments. to cause the camera to adjust the beam splitter alinement for that lens.
    CDAF relies on contrast, not a beam splitter to merge 2 images. It must find a minimum amount of contrast to achieve focus. The benefit here is that there is never a need to adjust the AF system, for back focus…ever. But, it is slower in some areas.
    If, you need fast tracking and fast AF fast FPS, you will need a DSLR imo.

    I don’t have a need for continuous fast FPS, I don’t shoot subjects that require it. So, for me, this topic is moot. it is a feature that is there, but I did not buy the E-M5 for that feature. I bought it for ISO Performance, I do shoot above ISO 2000 many times. I bought it for the Compact System compared to DSLRs (example: Panasonic 35-100 f/2.8 is under 1/2 the size and weight of a FF 70-200 f/2.8, and a few hundred dollars cheaper).. I have NO desire to ever go back to a heaver DSLR and it’s related lenses at 59 to achieve small improvement in AF speed (For what I shoot).

    I suggest if the m4/3 system is not working for you, you should look into a DSLR that does

    This complaint about the AF in the E-M5 is over.
    Sorry you bought into the wrong system for you.
    Good luck with your next system.
    Peter/Admin

  5. Why not set up a button for back button focus and just keep pushing it? It works well that way. Or the OP could buy a film camera without AF and see how hard it is with no autofocus and no in camera metering.

  6. It all boils down to shooting style…. if you are a Wedding Photographer that uses “Machine Gun” style shooting most of the time (because you don’t what are the key images or you can’t think ahead to snap off 3-6 at just before and after [the right moment], then, maybe you should observe the basic “must-have” images, and observe that they are pretty much at the same point in sequence at any Wedding..and then you can be ready ahead of time.
    I broke the Wedding down in 6 parts, and also, what [must have] shots I needed to have in each part. I hardly ever took more than 3 shots of anything, and 5fps was plenty using the center AF point on a Canon EOS 630. I had no problem with OOF images at all. Oh, I had a few, but far more In-Focus.
    As a Side… My Dad used a 4×5 Speed Graphic with a 12 exposure 4×5 sheet-film backs for Weddings in the 1940’s.
    I know of a few photographers that use Leica film RF for Weddings..and are quite successful.
    It is not the kind of AF used by the camera, it is the photographer… it always been the Photographer .. not the equipment.

  7. I tend too photograph a lot of wildlife and land scape. I’ve chosen to setup my EM5 metering to a custom mode with spot high set the AEL REC button. I find a highlight where I want detail then fine tune with the exposure compensation dial. I seldom get highlight “blinkies” and find it easier to focus my adapted Lieca 400 f6.8.
    I have my Oly E3 set up similarly to help control heights with the sensor’s limited DR.

    JOHN

  8. I must be missing something here. Am trying to tie the spot metering point to the AF rectangle, followed the instructions and set to mode 3 but all that does is remove AF and doesn’t tie the two things together at all. I want my metering point to be wherever I have my AF point on the screen, not to be limited to just having the centre for both! How do I do this? What am I missing? Thanks in advance for any advice!

    1. OK, I Updated the instructions…
      To Tie the Spot Meter to the AF point.

      * Menu
      * Gears
      * A
      * AEL-AF, set the options so a 1/2 press = AEL/AFL and Full Press = Exposure
      * S-AF
      * Mode-1 (locks both) Mode 3 is just for Metering, no AF lock–allows you to move the spot meter on any part of the frame.

      PAGE 93 of the PDF E-M5 manual

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