<Link to Review>
This lens is made for a Full Frame Sensor, but it is available in a M4/3 mount. Though, since it is an Ultra Wide, with some barrel distortion, it may not be an ideal choice, seeing the Panasonic G 14mm f/2.5 ASPH is made for the M4/3 sensor. But, it is an option.
If you’re interested in the Samyang 14mm (or whatever it’s called where you are) then consider what it is you want to use it for?
For some people the lack of AF and having to manually stop down the lens to the working aperture will be a show stopper.
However I found it perfectly easy to use out and about, by making use of good depth of field at f/8 and an ability to roughly estimate distances.
There is a permanent link under the tab for “Lens Reviews/3rd Party…”
I found a great article that I hope will help you newcomers to photography, a bit wisdom in buying your 1st camera and/or more gear. Although, the <Photographer> is the one who designs the photograph in their mind, before the shutter is pushed. The Gear needs to be a good fit for the Photographer. Buying the latest-and-greatest, isn’t always the <best> fit for the photographer, and their style of shooting.
Here is the link
Full review link
All the following below is taken from Robin Wong’s article linked above.
50mm F1.8 vs F1.4 Perception Argument
“If you come from Canon and Nikon background (both are great brands, I am not implying anything negative here, so please spare me some torture in the forums) you will surely be aware of the existence and more importantly, the stark difference between two main versions of the 50mm prime lenses, namely 50mm F1.8 and 50mm F1.4. The 50mm F1.4 is universally known and agreed to be the superior lens in comparison to the 50mm F1.8 lens. This is true not just because of that 2/3 stop of EV faster, but also in terms of optical quality and performance of the 50mm F1.4 being better, delivering unquestionably sharper output with better technical flaw controls (such as less distortion, better corner sharpness, less chromatic aberration, smoother bokeh, etc). There is no debate that 50mm F1.4 is surely better than 50mm F1.8, and this fact is further emphasized in the huge difference in pricing, with the 50mm F1.4 costing about 3-4 times more expensive than the 50mm F1.8. The truth and reality for those familiar with Canon and Nikon lens system are much simpler and straightforward. However, this does not apply to Panasonic 25mm F1.4 vs Olympus 25mm F1.8 lenses at all.”
Panasonic at f/1.4 Olympus at f/1.8
I am needing E-M1 Contributors that own the camera, and who can write about E-M1 features in the “How to” format.
It can be any feature that could use a little more explanation, on using it successfully.
Photo’s are an important part in many cases. And can help in making things more clear.
You will receive full credit, along with a Password as a Contributor. I will OK it and and Post it.
Please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you are interested.
Snip from the Steve Huff Article>>
Hello to all! I just arrived back home from Ireland after an 18 hour travel day, delayed flights and missed connections but hey, it was worth it just to go to the gorgeous castle and put the E-M1 to test in a beautiful environment (see my initial report HERE). The weather was not so hot on the day at the Castle which required me to up the ISO on the camera but I still feel the images are superb. I have had a few email requests for full size images, from RAW from the camera. So here you go!
Enjoy and have a great rest of the weekend! I will be back Monday morning!
These will open AS A FULL SIZE JPG in Olympus Viewer 3, 1.1 and Corel AfterShot Pro 22.214.171.124
I believe LightRoom 5.2 is the only RAW converter that can open the RAW file.
And AS A FULL SIZE JPG in Photoshop CC, ACR will need an update to open the RAW file.
To help customize the Olympus E-M5 to suit your needs, you can setup 3 buttons for specific functions. The 3 buttons are:
Many owners who have a good size stable of older manual focus lenses like to set Fn2 as a “Magnify” button. This is a very handy spot, being just to the right of the shutter button.
Many who like to take a light reading, and “Hold” it to re-frame, like to make the Red Video record button an Exposure Lock.. Using the Spot Meter for the reading area. Being just a small distance on the top deck from the shutter button, makes it convenient also..
And, I like Fn1 as the digital 2x option….
But, if you want to customize these 3 buttons and save them as a “My Camera #”, this allows you have several settings that are easily changed when needed.
OK, how do it?
- B (Button/Dial)
- Button Function
- up/down arrow to pick function
- OK (to set button to function)
To set the AEL to the spot meter:
- E (Exp/ISO)
- AEL Metering
- Up/Down arrows to pick meter pattern (3rd option is the Spot Meter)
- OK (to set the pattern)
BTW, if you change the Meter to Spot via the SCP before you use the AEL lock, you will see the effect as you move the spot around. The benefit of “Live View. Then you can just push the AEL button when you see the effect you want.
Part 2 on metering deals with how different meter patterns determine exposure, and how to take advantage of them.